Klaus Schermer erholt sich langsam von seiner Fingerverletzung und klettert die abwechslungsreiche "Tyrolean Style" 8a+. Roland Hemetzberger wurde wieder einmal in der "Bauernsau" gesichtet und holt sich am Sonntag prompt eine Wiederholung. Er verwendete jedoch (im Gegensatz zu den meisten Wiederholern) die guten Aufleger vom "Kaiwe Ziacha" und gibt deshalb wohl aus Verlegenheit den Grad 8b+ an. Diese Griffe liegen quasi am Weg und warum sie nicht verwenden??? Es gilt doch der leichteste Weg durch die Wand, solange man alle Bohrhaken klinken kann? Die Route wird deshalb zweifelsohne einen Tick leichter, weil man da kurz schütteln kann und der schwierige Ausstiegsboulder entspannter anzugehen ist. Aber trotzdem dürfte Bauernsau auch so noch 8c sein. Sonst müsste man den Remigius links davon wohl auf 8a+ abwerten.... Also: Gratulation zur "Bauernsau" 8c !!! Man soll da nicht so kleinlich sein ;-) ;-)
Unterlandler Methoden! 8c + Rastpunkt = 8c
AntwortenLöschenBei dem Rastpunkt kann man sich ja nicht mehr erholen. Der Sauerstoffgehalt der Luft in diesen Höhen ist gleich null. Das muss man schon auch bedenken. Wahrscheinlich ist die Bauernsau überhaupt die schwierigste Kletterei auf dieser Meereshöhe. Da können wahrscheinlich nicht einmal mehr die Routen in den Lienzer Dolomiten mithalten: deshalb 9a, wenn nicht 9a+ ohne Rastpunkt und ohne Vorhängen;-)
AntwortenLöschenWenns nach uns unterlandlern ginge, wäre auch die kombi in der mull mindestens 8c. warum sich denn das leben unnötig schwer machen? der unterlandler an sich klettert halt mal primär der zahlen wegen;-)und wegen einer mickrigen 8b+ packt der unterlandler schon lange das seil nicht mehr aus, auch wenns schöner als in der biographie zuginge.
AntwortenLöschenAlso der Deal:
AntwortenLöschenZentralland vs. Unterland:
Tauschen 8c für die Mullkombo gegen 8c für die Bauernsau inkl. Raster
und die Ethik lassen wir im Oberland
Wir lassen uns doch nicht erpressen. Das sind ja sizilianische Methoden. Kompromissangebot: Mullkombo 8b+/c und Bauernsau mit Raster leicht 8c? Weiter runter können wir einfach nicht gehen, das wär moralisch und menschenrechtlich nicht zu machen.
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